The Design Studio
One suit. Every decision.
Two pathsThe quick design in 13 decisions, or every detail.
Two pathsStart with the quick design — the 13 decisions that shape a suit. Switch to every detail whenever you want to go deeper. Your picks travel with you either way.
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The materials
Cloth first, then lining and buttons — each opens its own book, and brings you back here.
Front buttons
How the front closes. Single-breasted with 2 buttons is the classic, most-chosen jacket and the safest first suit. 1 button reads a little dressier (think dinner jackets); 3-roll-2 has three buttons but the lapel rolls over the top one, for a softer, more relaxed look. Double-breasted wraps across the body with two rows of buttons — bolder, and it should always be worn buttoned.
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Lapel style
The lapel is the folded-back panel on each side of the chest, and it sets the whole tone. Notch is the everyday standard — a small wedge cut where the lapel meets the collar. Peak points upward toward the shoulder: sharper, dressier, the usual pick for double-breasted. Semi-notch sits between the two. Shawl is one smooth curve with no notch — tuxedos and dinner jackets. Allen is our own softer variation on the peak.
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Lapel width
Any width from 5 to 13.5 cm, in 0.5 cm steps.
How wide the lapel is at its widest point. Around 8–9 cm is the modern standard and suits most builds. Narrower (5–7 cm) looks slimmer and more fashion-forward; wider (10 cm+) is fuller and more classic, and balances a broader chest. If you are not sure, leave it — we match the width to your frame at the fitting.
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Breast pocket
The pocket on the left chest where a pocket square goes. A welt (a single strip of cloth across the opening) is the standard on suits — flat welt is the classic, curved welt (the "barchetta", shaped like a little boat) is the Italian touch. Patch pockets are sewn on the outside and read casual — great for sport coats and summer jackets.
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Lower pockets
The two hip pockets. Straight with flaps is the standard suit pocket and goes with everything. Slanted ("hacking") pockets are angled for a sportier, more dynamic line. Welt or besom pockets (no flap) are the cleanest and dressiest — the tuxedo choice. Patch pockets are the casual option and belong on sport coats.
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Vents
The slit(s) at the back hem so the jacket moves when you sit or reach. Side vents (two) are the modern standard: they drape well, keep the back clean when you put your hands in your pockets, and flatter most builds. A center vent is the traditional American cut. No vent is the tuxedo/dinner-jacket look and the slimmest line, but it can pull when you sit.
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Ticket pocket
A small extra pocket above the right hip pocket — originally for train tickets. Purely a style detail: it adds a bit of English tailoring character and works best on jackets with flapped or slanted pockets. Most first suits skip it; it is a nice touch on a tweed or a check.
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Ticket pocket position
Which side the ticket pocket sits on. Right is the traditional placement. Only matters if you chose a ticket pocket.
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Sleeve slit
The cuff of the sleeve. "Real" means the slit actually opens and the buttons undo — the classic mark of a well-made jacket, and it lets you show an unbuttoned cuff. "Imitation" looks the same buttoned but does not open. Real slit with working buttonholes is the one most people want; pick imitation only if you expect the sleeves to be shortened a lot later.
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Sleeve buttons
How many buttons on each cuff. 4 is the standard on suits; 3 is slightly more casual; 5 is a fashion detail; 1 large button is a bold statement. Go with 4 unless you have a reason.
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Kissing buttons
"Kissing" means the cuff buttons overlap each other slightly instead of sitting in a neat line with space between them. A subtle tailoring detail people notice up close. Either is fine — no is the cleaner classic, yes is the sartorial flex.
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Slanted buttonholes
Whether the cuff buttonholes are set at a slight angle instead of straight. A small, sporty detail — most suits stay straight.
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Cuff style
A turn-back cuff folds the end of the sleeve back on itself, like a shirt cuff in cloth. It is a dressy, slightly vintage detail — great on dinner jackets and statement pieces. Nearly all suits use no turn-back.
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Jacket bottom
The shape of the front hem corners below the buttons. Rounded is the standard for single-breasted jackets — a soft curve that opens gently. Straight (square) corners are the double-breasted and tuxedo look. Open quarters curve away more dramatically, showing more trouser — a modern, Italian cut.
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Lining construction
How much of the inside is covered in lining. Full lining is the standard — it slides on easily and hides all the inner work. Half lining (lined in the front and shoulders, open across the lower back) breathes better and is the go-to for summer and lighter cloths. Quarter lining and unlined go further: lightest and most breathable, with the inside seams finished by hand so they look clean — a more casual, Neapolitan feel.
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Pick stitching
Pick stitching is the fine line of stitches running just inside the edge of the lapels, front and pockets. Machine pick stitch is small and evenly spaced — subtle, you see it only up close. Handmade pick stitch is a touch larger and slightly irregular, which is exactly what makes it look handmade — it is the detail people who know tailoring look for. None gives a completely clean edge, which is the tuxedo convention.
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Stitching coverage
Where the pick stitching goes. Half pick runs along the lapels and collar only. Full pick continues down the front edge, around the pockets and the hem — the fuller, more handworked look. If you chose handmade stitching, full pick is what shows it off.
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Lapel pick stitching
Whether the lapel edges themselves get the pick stitch. Yes is the normal choice when you have pick stitching at all.
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Stitching width
How far from the edge the pick stitch sits. 0.2 cm hugs the edge and is the quietest. 0.6 cm sits further in and is more visible. Double (a line at 0.2 and another at 0.6) is a bold, decorative choice. Most jackets use 0.2 or 0.3.
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Sleeve lining
The lining inside the sleeves, separate from the body lining. Regular matches the body. Striped sleeve lining is a classic tailor's touch — you see it only when the cuff is unbuttoned. Custom print: send us an image and we print it. None means unlined sleeves, for the very lightest summer jackets.
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Front buttonhole stitch color
The thread color used to sew the buttonholes on the front of the jacket. Matching the cloth is invisible and classic. A contrast color (say, burgundy on navy) is a small signature detail. Choose "Color of my choice" and tell us the color in the request box — we confirm the exact thread with you.
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Sleeve buttonhole stitch colors
Which cuff buttonholes get a contrast thread. Match cloth keeps them all invisible. One accent color on all of them is the usual way to do it. Accenting only the first or only the last buttonhole is the subtle version — the one people spot when your cuff is undone. Mixed lets every buttonhole be a different color; tell us the colors in the request box.
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Last buttonhole
The lowest buttonhole on the cuff can be cut a touch larger than the others. A quiet sartorial detail; standard size is what almost everyone has.
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Lapel buttonhole style
The buttonhole on the lapel (where a boutonnière goes). Functional is a real, cut-through buttonhole; imitation is stitched to look identical but not cut open — they look the same from the outside. Handmade versions are sewn by hand with visibly finer, denser stitching — the connoisseur detail. If you pick handmade, choose the design on the next step.
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Lapel buttonhole design
Only applies if you chose a handmade lapel buttonhole. These are the designs the buttonhole can be sewn in — from the classic straight and round to the Milanese and the flowered styles. Straight is the traditional choice; Milanese is the famous silk-twist showpiece.
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Lapel buttonhole quantity
How many lapel buttonholes and on which side. Left only is the classic (one buttonhole, left lapel). Left and right is the double-breasted convention. None is the tuxedo look on a shawl collar.
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Lapel buttonhole color
The thread color of the lapel buttonhole. Match cloth is invisible. Stitching color uses a contrast thread — usually the same accent you chose for the other buttonholes, or tell us a color in the request box.
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Flexible pocket lining
A small gusset of lining inside the hip pockets so they stretch instead of pulling when you put your hands or phone in. Yes is a practical upgrade with no visible downside.
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Cuff clip
A small fabric tab at the inside of the cuff that keeps the unbuttoned cuff from flopping open. Rarely chosen — worth it only if you always wear your cuffs undone.
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Gorge height
The gorge is the point where the collar meets the lapel — the notch. Raising it makes the lapel look longer and the chest taller; it is the modern, Italian look and flatters shorter or slimmer frames. Lowering it is the classic, more relaxed look and suits taller or broader builds. Standard is right for most people; we fine-tune this at the fitting.
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Elbow patches
Oval patches sewn on the elbows — the professor / country-tweed detail. Purely decorative on a new jacket. Works on tweeds and casual sport coats; never on a suit. If you choose yes, tell us the patch material in the request box (suede, contrast cloth, leather).
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Statement front button
Frog buttons are knotted-cord closures instead of regular buttons — a dramatic, formal detail for dinner jackets and special occasions. Regular buttons are right for any normal suit. "Handmade · suit fabric" makes the frog out of your own cloth.
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Sweat pads
A hidden pad of cloth or lining inside the underarm that protects the jacket from sweat. Invisible from the outside. Lining is the lightest; fabric is sturdier. A sensible yes if you run warm or wear the jacket in summer.
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Monogram
Your text, font, thread color, and placement — chosen from diagrams.
Your initials or a name, embroidered inside the jacket. Type it, pick a lettering style and a thread color, and see a live preview — then choose where it sits from the diagrams. Most people go with initials in the inside pocket area, stitched in a tone-on-tone or a quiet contrast. Tell us anything unusual in the request box.
AFLive preview — embroidered inside the jacket
Lettering
Thread
Placement
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Contrast placement
Using a different cloth (a contrast) on the lapels or collar — the tuxedo idea, where the lapels are satin or grosgrain. No is right for a normal suit. Lapel + collar is the classic dinner-jacket look; back collar only (a contrast under the collar, seen only when it is flipped) is a hidden detail.
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Chest pocket contrast
Trim the chest pocket in your contrast material — either a thin line along the upper edge or the whole pocket. Only makes sense if you chose a lapel contrast.
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Lower pocket contrast
Piping is a thin line of your contrast material along the pocket opening; it can extend to the flaps. A detail for dinner jackets and statement pieces — pair it with a lapel contrast.
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Ticket pocket contrast
The same contrast piping idea, applied to the ticket pocket. Only relevant if you have a ticket pocket and a contrast elsewhere.
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Lapel trimming
Trimming is a line of contrast set in from the lapel edge, or a pipe edge right on the edge — think of a navy lapel with a fine black line around it. A strong, formal detail. No is the norm.
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Turn-back cuffs
If you chose turn-back cuffs, this sets what the turned-back part is made of — matching your lapel contrast, the trimming, or plain. Skip unless you have turn-back cuffs.
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Inside sleeve fork
The fork is the little V where the sleeve slit opens. You can face the inside of it with lining or a ribbon so a flash of color shows when the cuff is unbuttoned. Regular lining is the standard; choose lining or ribbon and tell us the material or color in the request box.
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Cigarette pocket
A small inside pocket sized for a cigarette pack or a phone, lower down than the main inside pockets. One on the left is the common choice.
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Vertical inside pocket
A vertical inside pocket on the left — handy for a phone, keeps it from sagging sideways.
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Pen pocket
A narrow inside pocket for a pen. Straight is standard; the triangle and water-drop shapes are decorative variations.
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Glasses pocket
An inside pocket sized for glasses or sunglasses. Yes if you carry them — it keeps them from scratching against your phone.
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Facing edge piping
Piping is a fine rolled edge along the inside facing (the strip of suit cloth that runs down the inside front). Inside piping in a contrast lining is a hidden flourish you see only when the jacket is open.
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Facing edge material
What the inside piping is made of — your jacket lining, a second lining of your choice (small extra cost), or a material you specify. Tell us the lining code or color in the request box.
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Pleats
Many more pleat arrangements are available in person.
Folds sewn into the front of the trouser below the waistband. No pleats (flat front) is the modern standard — clean and slim. A single pleat adds room through the hip and thigh and a touch of classic elegance; double pleats go fuller and more traditional, great with a higher rise. If you sit a lot or want more comfort, pleats earn their keep.
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Side pockets
The front hip pockets. Slanted is the standard on suit trousers — easy to use, drapes well. Seam pockets hide in the side seam for the cleanest possible line (the tuxedo choice). Welt and besom add a finished edge along the opening. Jean-style pockets read casual.
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Waistband
How the trousers hold your waist. Standard is a plain band worn with a belt. Side-adjusters (tabs or buttons) replace the belt entirely — a dressier, cleaner look. The elastic adjustable is our fan favorite: looks like a normal waistband, quietly stretches a couple of cm when you need it. Gurkha wraps the waistband across the front with buckles — a statement. Fully elastic is pure comfort, more casual.
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Waistband width
How tall the waistband is. Around 4–4.5 cm is standard. Wider bands (5 cm+) suit higher-rise trousers and Gurkha styles; they also flatter taller frames. If you are not sure, leave it — we match it to the cut at the fitting.
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Waist extension
The shape of the waistband tab that crosses the fly. Mostly an aesthetic detail you see when the jacket is open — square and pointed are classic, the extended and Italian shapes are longer and more distinctive. Standard strap is the safe default.
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Closure
What actually fastens the waistband. A hook with a small extender is the dress-trouser standard — flat and secure under a jacket. A plain button is simpler and a bit more casual. Double hooks spread the tension on wider waistbands (Gurkha, high-rise). This pairs with the extension shape you chose above.
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Belt loop quantity
How many belt loops. Standard (usually 6–7) is right if you wear a belt. If you chose side-adjusters or Gurkha, go with none — that is the whole point. 8 or 10 sets spread the load on bigger waist sizes.
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Belt loop style
The loops themselves. Standard fits dress belts. Double loops are a subtle sartorial detail; wide loops suit casual trousers and wider belts.
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Watch pocket
A small pocket tucked at the front of the waistband — originally for a pocket watch, handy today for coins, a ring, or a key. Right side is traditional.
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Watch pocket flap
A little flap over the watch pocket. Purely decorative — the diamond and round shapes add a vintage touch. Only matters if you chose a watch pocket.
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Back darts
The small vertical folds sewn above the back pockets that shape the seat. Single darts are standard; double darts give a rounder seat more room and a cleaner drape. We decide this by your build at the fitting — leave it if unsure.
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Back pockets
How many back pockets. Two is standard on suits. One (usually the right, for a wallet) keeps the left side cleaner. None gives the smoothest seat — common on tuxedo trousers.
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Back pocket style
The style of the back pocket opening. Besom (a double-piped slit) is the suit standard. Welt has a single wider lip. Pointed ticket adds a small decorative point.
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Back pocket buttons
Whether the back pockets close with a button and loop. Buttons keep a wallet secure and add a finished look; none is sleeker.
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Back pocket flaps
Fabric flaps covering the back pockets — a sportier, more casual detail. Most suit trousers skip them; they work well on separates and heavier cloths.
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Flap shape
The shape of those back-pocket flaps, if you chose them. Compare the diagrams — straight, pointed, or rounded.
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Trouser bottom
How the trouser leg ends. Plain hem is the clean modern standard. Cuffs (turn-ups) fold the cloth back on itself — a classic touch that adds a little weight so the leg drapes and breaks nicely; 4–4.5 cm is the sweet spot. Edge fold is a subtler, flat fold. Cuffs pair especially well with pleats.
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Trouser lining
A thin lining inside the front of the trousers. Front half (to the knee) is the standard — it stops itch on wool, helps the trouser glide and keeps the knee from bagging. None is lighter and cooler for summer cloths.
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Stitching color
The thread color for the trouser stitching. Match cloth is invisible and standard. Choose a color and tell us in the request box — we confirm the exact thread with you.
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Waistband inner
The inside face of the waistband. The anti-slip strip is a rubberized band that grips your shirt and keeps it tucked — a quiet quality-of-life upgrade. Pleated inner is the decorative, old-school finish.
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Waist back center
The seam at the center back of the waistband. A split (I or V shape) leaves cloth in the seam so the waist can be let out later if you need it — the tailor-friendly choice. No slit is cleaner but harder to alter.
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Trouser monogram
Placement options shown at your appointment.
Your initials or a name embroidered inside the trousers — same idea as the jacket monogram, and usually matched to it. It sits hidden inside the waistband.
Matches your jacket monogram — the text, lettering and thread carry over (set them on the jacket's monogram step). Here you just choose whether the trousers get one, and where it sits.
Placement
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Contrast placement
A contrast material worked into the trousers — along the side seam (the tuxedo stripe idea), on pocket besoms, or the waistband. Pair it with the jacket contrast for a full formal look. No is the norm.
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Side tape
The stripe down the outer seam — a tuxedo trouser, or a quiet version of one.
The formal side stripe down the outseam — tuxedo territory. Width sets how bold it is; with or without visible stitching sets how it reads up close. Skip for a business suit.
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Coin pocket
A small pocket inside the right front pocket for coins or an AirPods case.
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Suspender buttons
Buttons sewn inside the waistband for suspenders (braces). If you wear suspenders, this is the proper way — clip-ons chew the waistband. Pairs naturally with a higher rise and no belt loops.
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Front pocket depth
How deep the front pockets go. Deeper keeps a phone from peeking out when you sit; shallower reduces bulk on slim cuts. Standard suits most people.
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Dreamed up something we didn't list?
Customers have invented their own details before — and we made them. Request anything at your appointment. We work with you.